Day-old bread is not a failure, it is an invitation. A good deal of Mediterranean cooking exists precisely because someone had half a loaf going firm and no intention of wasting it.

First, try reviving it

Before you write a loaf off as leftovers, check whether it is merely firm. Firmness is caused by starch recrystallising, and heat reverses it temporarily:

If it comes back, eat it that day; a revived loaf firms up again faster than it did the first time. If it does not come back, it is ready for the list below — and several of these dishes are actually better with bread that has dried out, because dry bread absorbs without collapsing.

Nine things to do with the end of a loaf

  1. Panzanella. Tear the bread into rough chunks, toss with very ripe tomatoes, good olive oil, a splash of red wine vinegar, red onion and basil. Leave it half an hour so the bread drinks the tomato juice. The Tuscan answer to a stale loaf, and better than it has any right to be.
  2. Bruschetta. Grill or griddle thick slices, rub the hot surface with a cut garlic clove, pour over olive oil, and top generously — tomatoes, white beans, roast peppers, anything.
  3. Ribollita. The Tuscan bread-and-bean soup that is reheated the next day, which is what its name means. Cannellini beans, cavolo nero, tomato, and enough torn bread to make it almost solid.
  4. Migas. Spanish, and a proper breakfast. Fry cubes of bread in olive oil with garlic and smoked paprika until crisp, and serve with an egg, or chorizo, or both.
  5. Breadcrumbs. Blitz, spread on a tray, dry in a low oven, and keep in a jar — or freeze them in a bag and use from frozen. Endlessly useful for coating, topping and thickening.
  6. Pangrattato. Coarse breadcrumbs fried in olive oil with garlic, chilli, lemon zest and anchovy, scattered over pasta or greens. Known in Italy as poor man’s parmesan, and a genuine improvement on the rich man’s version for some dishes.
  7. Croutons. Cubes tossed in oil and roasted until golden. The difference between these and the shop version is roughly the difference between coffee and instant.
  8. Eggy bread or pain perdu. Literally “lost bread”. Soak slices in beaten egg and milk and fry in butter — savoury with bacon, or sweet with sugar and cinnamon.
  9. Summer pudding or bread sauce. Two British dishes built on the same idea — stale white bread as a structure for something else, either soaked in berry juice or simmered with milk, onion and cloves.

Five of these — panzanella, bruschetta, ribollita, migas and breadcrumbs — are printed in the “Nothing wasted” page of Breads of the Mediterranean, the recipe book that comes with every Melipsa set.

Keeping bread for leftovers on purpose

If you know a loaf is heading this way, help it along properly rather than leaving it in a bag to go soft and musty. Cut it into cubes or slices, spread them on a tray, and dry them out in a very low oven or simply on the worktop for a day. Dry bread keeps for weeks in a jar. Damp bread grows mould in three days.

When to stop

One firm rule: if there is visible mould, the loaf goes in the bin — all of it. Bread is soft and moist enough that the visible spot is only the part you can see; the network is already through the surrounding crumb. Cutting round it is not safe, however small the patch, and however good the bread was.

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